Journey overview

Spantik Peak face is climbed via two different routes. Alexander Klenov and Mikhail Davy climbed the first section of the pillar along the English route and then continued via a new line which required 11 bivouacs overall. The international team spent five days following Victor Saunders and Mick Fowler's English route between 5th and 11th August 1987.

In 1959 a British-Pakistan Army expedition under the leadership of Captain H.R.A. Streather headed to Chogolungma and Kero Lungma glaciers to explore them for a possible climb on the smaller peaks in the area. The peak was however climbed from south ridge by a Japanese Club Expedition called Hoshi-to-Arashi (Stars and Storms) led by Nakamura. The Reiho Alpine Club expedition of Japan also climbed it in the same year from southeast ridge. It was led by Y. Murata. Both expeditions mention avalanche danger in the area and both approached the peak from Chogolungma Glacier. Some Japanese publications indicate that Spantik peak was climbed in 1955 by Germans.

A supported expedition plan for Spantik Peak with permit coordination, approach trekking, base-camp logistics and weather contingency. Karakoram Vision Pakistan plans this programme around confirmed road access, accommodation, weather and local operating conditions. Any summit attempt depends on permits, weather, route conditions and the expedition leader’s decision.

Fact & Figures:
Duration of Expedition:                 35 Days Islamabad to Islamabad
Hotel Nights: 07 Nights                  Camping Nights: 07 Nights
Days for Climbing: 19 Days            Group Size: 08+  

  Best Time: 15 July to 10 Sep
Type of Expedition: Unguided (services up to base camp only)

PROGRAM

Day 01: Arival at Islamabad airport transfer to hotel.

Day 02: Fly to Skardu or drive to Naran/Chilas 

Day 03: Drive to Skardu or preparation day

Day 04: Drive to Arandu, overnight camping.

Day 05: Trek via Chogo Lungma glacier.

Day 06: Trek to Spantik base camp

Day 07-26: CLIMBING DAYS

Day 27-29: Trek back from Spantik base camp to Arandu.

Day 30: Drive to Skardu, 

Day 31: Debriefing in Skardu.

Day 32: Fly to Islamabad

Day 34: Reserve day incase of flight cancellation

Day 35: Fly to onward destination.

Planning notes

This is a starter itinerary rather than a binding quotation. Final services, permits, safety arrangements, hotel category and payment schedule are confirmed in writing after the travel dates and group profile are received.

Responsible travel

Guests are expected to respect local communities, cultural sites, protected areas and mountain waste rules. The operating plan prioritizes realistic travel times and local services.